Lacing Guide
How to Lace Dress Shoes: Straight Bar & Criss-Cross Lacing
The lacing style you choose can make a dress shoe look sharp and formal — or casual and off. Here’s how to lace Oxfords and Derbies the right way, which method suits each, and the laces that finish the look.
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The short answer
For a formal finish, match the method to the shoe.
Oxford (closed lacing)
Straight bar lacing — cleanest, most formal look
Derby (open lacing)
Straight bar or criss-cross — both sit well on open eyelets
Best lace
Thin round or flat waxed laces (2–3mm) in black or brown
Golden rule
Straight, flat bars across the front = formal. Keep them neat.
First, know your shoe: Oxford vs Derby
The eyelet design decides which lacing looks right — so check this before you start.
Oxford — closed lacing
✓ The eyelet flaps are stitched closed at the bottom
✓ The most formal dress shoe — black-tie and business
✓ Best with straight bar lacing for a clean, minimal front
Derby — open lacing
✓ The eyelet flaps sit open on top of the shoe
✓ Slightly more relaxed — great for smart-casual and wider feet
✓ Works with straight bar or a neat criss-cross
The two methods, step by step
Start with the lace even on both sides and work one row at a time, keeping each bar flat and untwisted.
Straight bar (ladder) lacing — most formal
1. Thread straight across the bottom two eyelets, going in from the top so the ends come up underneath.
2. Take one end straight up underneath to the next eyelet, then across the front to form a bar.
3. Do the same with the other end, skipping up one row each time so the fronts stay as clean horizontal bars.
4. Finish at the top and tie inside, out of sight.
Criss-cross lacing — classic & easy
1. Start across the bottom eyelets with the ends coming up through the top.
2. Cross each end over and feed it into the next eyelet up on the opposite side.
3. Keep the crossings even and pulled snug so they sit flat.
4. Tie off at the top. Neat and symmetrical is what keeps it looking dressy.
Which lacing style for which occasion?
A quick guide to how formal each method reads.
| Method | The look | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Straight bar | Clean horizontal bars, no crossings showing | Black-tie, weddings, business — most formal |
| Criss-cross | Classic diagonal crossings | Everyday office, smart-casual Derbies |
| Over-under | Low-profile crossings, less bulk | Comfort and a flatter fit on long days |
Choosing the right dress shoe laces
Thin, waxed laces in a matching colour are what separate a sharp dress shoe from a scruffy one.
Most formal
Waxed laces
A subtle sheen and a crisp knot that stays put — the classic dress shoe choice.
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Thin & neat
Round laces
Fine 2–3mm round laces sit low in the eyelets for a refined, dressy finish.
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Flat look
Flat laces
Prefer a flat ribbon across the front? Thin flat laces suit many Derbies and brogues.
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Premium
Leather laces
For boots and heritage shoes that call for a structured, premium finish.
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By brand
Laces by dress brand
Exact replacements for Florsheim, Loake, Aquila, Church’s, Allen Edmonds and more.
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More methods
All lacing styles
Reverse, over-under, heel-lock and more — browse every lacing method with tutorials.
See all lacing styles
Size guide
Not sure what length you need?
Match your eyelet count to the right lace length for Oxfords, Derbies and brogues.
Dress shoe lacing FAQs
What is the most formal way to lace dress shoes?
Straight bar lacing (also called ladder or bar lacing). It shows clean horizontal bars across the front with no visible crossings, which reads as the most formal — ideal for Oxfords at a wedding or black-tie event. See the full method on our traditional shoe lacing guide.
Should dress shoes have round or flat laces?
Thin round waxed laces are the classic dress choice because they sit low and neat in the eyelets. Flat laces also work, especially on Derbies and brogues — just keep them thin so they don’t look casual.
Can I use straight bar lacing on a Derby?
Yes. Straight bar lacing works on both Oxfords and Derbies — on a Derby the open eyelets mean the bars will spread a little wider, which still looks smart. Criss-cross is the easier everyday option.
What colour laces should I use?
Match the lace to the shoe: black laces for black shoes, and a brown close to your leather for tan or brown shoes. A matching, waxed lace keeps the focus on the shoe, not the lacing.
What length laces do dress shoes need?
Most dress shoes have 2 to 6 pairs of eyelets and take laces from about 45cm to 120cm. Count your eyelet pairs and check the length guide linked above to get it right the first time.